Paris earns every superlative ever written about it and then demands more. The Eiffel Tower at night, the Louvre's impossible richness, a crêpe eaten while walking along the Seine — these experiences are not diminished by familiarity. What makes Paris consistently extraordinary for mid-range travellers is the neighbourhood culture: the café rituals of Saint-Germain, the street art of Belleville, the covered passages of the 2nd arrondissement.